Textile Finish Glossary

Textile Term Glossary

A

Acrylic Backing

This is a flexible acrylic latex applied to the back of the fabric. It increases the stability of the fabric and helps to keep the fabric from unraveling. Acrylic backing gives upholstery fabric dimensional stability and also prevents seam slippag.

Acrylic Backing with Flame Retardancy

This finish has the same advantages of an Acrylic Backing FLAME RETARDANCY with Flame Retardancy ingredients added to have the fabric pass the NFPA 260 upholstery standard.

Antimicrobial Finish

This is a water based finish used in hospitals and health care settings to kill or slow the growth of many bacteria and some viruses.

B

Bargello

A type of needlepoint embroidery that consists of upright flat stitches used to create motifs in a mathematical pattern.

Blackout

An opaque fabric used to block out light, most commonly found in bedrooms or hotel rooms, as curtain linings or drapery fabrics, blocking much of the light that would otherwise enter through a window when the curtains are closed

Brocade

A fabric woven with a raised design. It can resemble embroidery, but the patterns are not stitched; instead, they’re created with extra weft threads as the fabric is woven on the loom.

Bullion

A thick trimming of cord often used to line the edge of draperies or pillows

C

C117/SE

A regulation that sets the standard for upholstered furniture flammability in the furniture industry

CA 133

A regulation that sets the standard for upholstered furniture flammability in the furniture industry, except that it specifically regulates the flammability of furniture that will be used in “public spaces.” This includes both government buildings and offices owned by private companies that will house ten or more people

Casement

A heavier, thicker sheer fabric, typically cotton and linen

Chenille

A fabric with a pile on its surface, making it very soft and fuzzy. Chenille is the French term for caterpillar, referring to the fuzzy surface of the fabric to which it resembles 

Chinoiserie

The imitation or evocation of Chinese motifs and techniques in Western design

Cleaning Codes

P: Gentle cleaning with PCE (a dry cleaning agent)

S: Dry Clean Only  → Clean with pure solvents that are petroleum distillate-based products.  Excessive water-based or detergent-based might cause excessive shrinkage.  Water stains might become permanent. Frequently brush or vacuum to prevent buildup.

SW: Cool wash with care, no bleach → Clean with water-based cleaning agents, foam or pure solvents that are petroleum-based. Frequently brush or vacuum to prevent buildup.

W: Machine Washable

WS: Spot clean with upholstery shampoo

WW: Spot clean; water-based agents

C.O.M.

Customer’s Own Material

Crewel

A type of surface embroidery using wool. A wide variety of different embroidery stitches are used to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old. Also known as crewelwork.

Crypton

A patented technology for the treatment of fabric to prevent it from becoming stained and to resist and inhibit the growth of bacteria, commonly used in the upholstery industry

D

Denier

A measurement unit that expresses fiber thickness of individual threads in fabric

Dim-Out

A fabric with room-darkening capability, while still allowing a small amount of light in

Double Rubs

A measurement of a fabric’s abrasion resistance. They are listed with most fabrics and are helpful in determining which fabric is right for a particular application

Dry Cleaning

Any cleaning process for clothing and textiles using a solvent other than water.

Duragard

Soil and stain repellent treatment. A chemical finish is applied on the surface of the fabric and create an invisible protection which prevents liquid or stain to penetrate the fiber which makes it much easier to remove the soil and stain.

Dyelot

A record taken during the dyeing of yarn, fabric, or garments to identify which has received its coloration in the same vat or other coloring process at the same time

F

FibreGuard

FibreGuard combines the latest Stain Free Technology with high quality and stylish home furnishing textiles to ensure long lasting, low maintenance fabrics.

Fil Coupe

Incorporates small jacquard (or woven-in) patterns where threads are cut on the backside of the fabric to create a distinctive frayed look underneath

Flame Retardancy 701

Flame Retardancy 701 finishing is a water based application to meet the strict fire codes on vertical hanging fabrics in public places, aircraft, nursing homes and hospitals. Flame Retardants are non-toxic and safe for the environment. They are also durable to solvent based dry cleaning, but are removed in laundering.

Flame Retardancy 260

This finish is applied to the back of the fabric in a water based application. Because only the back of the fabric is treated, the face of the fabric is not affected in any way. This code is used for fabrics on upholstered furniture.

Flame Retardancy
With Soil & Stain Repellent

This is a combination of both Flame Retardancy and Stain Repellant finishes.

Flamestitch

A needlepoint stitch that produces a pattern resembling flames.

G

Greenshield

GreenShield® is a stain repellent finish that has improved environmental characteristics. This water based finish uses nano technology to repel all water borne, oil borne and dirt stains. GreenShield® is not recommended for velvets and other delicate fabrics. Solvent based finishes are available for these fabrics; however they do not possess nano technology.

H

Hand

Literally, the feel of the goods in the hand, a qualitative term used to describe the tactile properties of a fabric

Dim-Out

A fabric with room-darkening capability, while still allowing a small amount of light in

Double Rubs

A measurement of a fabric’s abrasion resistance. They are listed with most fabrics and are helpful in determining which fabric is right for a particular application

I

Ikat

A dyeing technique that involves treating yarns to resist dyeing prior to weaving the fabric

Imberline

A woven fabric with various colored stripes in the warp, often separated by gold thread                                                                                                                 

J

Jacobean

A woven fabric that features embroidery, often with stylized designs of floral patterns, fruits, small animals and birds

Jacquards

Any fabric that uses the weaving process originally produced by weavers and loom boys, and then perfected by Joseph Marie Jacquard. Jacquard fabrics, simple or elaborate in design, include brocade, brocatelle, damask, neckwear, evening wear, formal attire, some shirting’s, tapestries, etc.

L

Liseres

A satin striped fabric with a small floral vine in between the stripes

Lycra

A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement, and shape retention that will not wash away

M

Martindale

A durability test in which an abrasive cloth is rubbed along the fabric in a figure eight motion to measure the endurance of the fabric before there is a change in appearance (such as pilling, holes, or yarn breaks)

Matelasse

A weaving or stitching technique yielding a pattern that appears quilted or padded

Microfibers

An extremely fine synthetic fiber that can be woven into textiles with the texture and drape of natural fiber cloth but with enhanced washability, breathability, and water repellency.

Mildew Resistance

This is a water based product used to protect the fabric against mold and mildew. This is recommended for use on ‘outdoor’ fabric as well as fabrics in warm and humid environments.

Moire

A textile with a wavy (watered) appearance

N

Nano-Tex

Nano-Tex protects your home textiles with soft, durable applications that provide the right balance of comfort and performance. Nano-Tex brings innovative solutions that resist spills, repel stains, and keep you static-free. For more information, please visit www.nanotex.com

NFPA 260

Testing measures the ignition resistance of a fabric after it is exposed to a flame

NFPA 701

Testing measures the ignition resistance of a fabric after it is exposed to a flame

O

Olefin

A synthetic fiber made from a polyolefin, such as polypropylene or polyethylene (which are plastic based compounds)

Ottoman/Faille

A fabric with a pronounced ribbed or corded effect, often made of silk or a mixture of cotton and other silk like yarns                                                            

R

Railroaded

A bolt of fabric that features the top of the pattern going across the roll, versus the more typical pattern going up the roll

Rayon

A semi-synthetic fabric, with properties similar to cotton, and created from a combination of wood pulp and chemicals

Repeat

Refers to singular unit of a pattern, whether printed or the physical woven fabric pattern

RM COCO Exclusive

A fabric pattern or design that is unique to RM COCO. You can’t get these patterns or colorways anywhere else!

Rouche

A gathered ruffle or pleat of fabric                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

S

Selvage

The edge on either side of a woven or flat knitted fabric, often of different threads and/or weave, so finished to prevent raveling

Soil & Stain Repellent

This finish is sprayed onto the face of the fabric and repels oil, water and dirt borne stains. This finish is durable to steam cleaning and shampoo cleaning.

Suzani

Refers to singular unit of a pattern, whether printed or the physical woven fabric pattern

Strike-Off

A trial sample of printed fabric made to indicate and verify color and pattern before printing quantity

Substrate

Refers to base cloth or ground cloth for printing.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

T

Taffeta

A crisp, plain-woven high-end fabric made most often from silk

Tapestry

A form of textile art on heavy fabric where the design is created by weaving weft threads tightly into the the warp.

Toile

Typically a linen fabric with a single-color printed design, often depicting a rural scene or activity including farm animals and people                       

V

Viscose

Also known as Rayon, a semi-synthetic fabric, with properties similar to cotton, and created from a combination of wood pulp and chemicals

W

Warp & Weft

Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn yarn into fabric. On a loom, the lengthwise, or vertical yarns are known as the warp, and are taught, while the horizontal weft is drawn through and inserted over-and-under the warp. A single thread of the weft crossing the warp is called a pick.

Wyzenbeek

A durability test in which an abrasive cloth is rubbed back and forth along both the warp and weft of the fabric to measure the endurance of the fabric before there is a change in appearance (such as pilling, holes, or yarn breaks)